iceland: land of fire and ice

I recently visited Iceland, the land of fire and ice, and this spectacular destination has made its way into my heart and onto my list of favourite places in the world. Nature’s bounty abounds here: volcanoes, glaciers, mountains, geothermal waters and the Northern Lights make it one of the world’s most breathtaking countries. A short five-hour flight on Icelandair from Toronto to Keflavik and I was transported to a truly magical place. Here’s a glimpse at some of the highlights:

The Blue Lagoon is a must for all visitors to Iceland. The blue waters are fed into the lagoon from a nearby geothermal power plant. Stop here on your way to or from Keflavik Airport for a rejuvenating swim in this geothermal seawater that will revive your mind, body and spirit. The waters are known to have a positive effect on your skin. And it’s just so cool!

The 50-kilometre drive from Keflavik Airport into Reykjavik is breathtaking. The scenery is rugged and quaint structures like this one can be seen along the way.

These stone figures stand guard along the coast.

Making our way to the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, my boyfriend Johnny Jet and I got (temporarily) stranded on the glacier. The wheels of our massive jeep got stuck in the ice and snow, but as you can see from the photo, we weren’t too concerned. And besides, the sun didn’t set til around midnight so we weren’t concerned about it getting dark too quickly up there!

We made it! Snowmobiling atop Mýrdalsjökull glacier was an experience I’ll never forget. High in the mountains, it’s like being on top of the world and just a stone’s throw from Heaven. Tour company Arcanum gives you everything you’ll need to prepare for your extreme winter adventure: snowmobile, insulated coverall, helmet and facemask. And … we’re off!

Lamb is one of the most popular meat choices in Iceland but it’s hard to eat once you’ve made friends with one of these little guys! Along the side of the road, on our way to Eyjafjallajokull volcano (better known as E15 for its impossible-to-pronounce name), we met this furry friend. He ran straight towards me and, well, we bonded.

Horse meat can also be found in many Icelandic menus. This beautiful horse and many more stopped to say hello as we passed by.

Seen from the restaurant at the four-star Hotel Ranga, a secluded and exclusive hotel situated about 100 kilometres east of Reyjkavik, this Icelandic moon lit up the sky. While I was visiting, the sun didn’t set til close to midnight. It was a sight to behold.

If Iceland isn’t on your list of places to visit, I urge you to add it now. The scenery will take your breath away at every turn and you’ll never forget your experience here, in the land of fire and ice.

{photography via Johnny Jet}

keep calm and carry on

Picture 10Before we get back to my European adventure (a Mediterranean cruise through the Turkish and Greek islands, followed by a stop in London), I wanted to share my latest love with you.

I always find it difficult to find great artwork for my home. It’s rare that I seem to find an affordable piece of art that really speaks to me. I don’t like adorning my walls with art that doesn’t have a special meaning to me, which is why I often opt for photography instead. I once bought three gorgeous photos from a woman selling her works at the One of a Kind Show in Toronto, of destinations I dream of visiting. Gazing at them on my living room wall reminds me of dreams I’ve yet to fulfill.

But I recently discovered keepcalmandcarryon.com and I just love this poster. Originally designed by the British government during the Second World War, this poster was meant to strengthen the resolve of the British people, should the Germans invade Great Britain. The poster was never used despite the fact that two and a half million copies were printed. The poster was rediscovered in 2000.

Why do I like it? The message is clear and simple: Keep Calm and Carry On. Whether facing small day-to-day trials or large, life-changing tragedies, for me the words evoke precisely the feeling they say. Keep calm. Carry on. Like it or not, we have no choice but to do just that. I love the simplicity of the words and the enormity of what they say. And of course, their historic significance certainly gives pause.

If you’re interested in the poster, visit keepcalmandcarryon.com for more information. The original poster was printed on a deep red background but I like the one pictured here, with a distressed Union Jack. I love the Union Jack as a design element (remember the umbrella designed by Sir Paul Smith?) and even spent hours on my last trip to London looking for a Union Jack umbrella, one not as expensive as Smith’s version and not as cheap as the thousands sold in the souvenir stalls on the streets. No luck. But I digress. I love the vintage style of the poster pictured here, though it’s available in 12 other colours on keepcalmandcarryon.com. The company is UK-based but they ship internationally and unframed, the posters are only 10 GBP.

two days in athens

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As I mentioned in my last blog post, the view from my room at the Athenaeum was of the Parthenon. Yes, the Parthenon. I can’t quite describe the feeling. The Parthenon is a fixture from textbooks, not something I’d ever really expect to see while lying in bed. But there you have it. If you want one of the world’s most glorious nighttime views, spend the night in one of the Athenaeum’s Parthenon-facing rooms. It is lit up at night, making it even more spectacular than it already is during the daytime.

I only spent two days in Athens and while my BF and I hustled to see the Parthenon on our first day, we simply couldn’t resist and paid another visit the following day. It was just that incredible. It was sweltering both days and it’s a bit of a climb to get to the top, so be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen and a hat and bring water. (I feel like I’ve provided this advice for almost every destination on this trip but it’s just imperative, especially when walking great distances in the scorching summer heat in Europe.)

There’s plenty to do in Athens but when your time is limited like ours was, you must pick and choose, especially if you want to see the Parthenon twice! When Seabourn Odyssey deposited us in the port of Piraeus, we jumped in a cab (the port is crawling with them!) and struck a deal with our cab-driver. For a pre-determined amount, he would tour us around Athens in his car for one hour. This was a great way to get a sense of the city before we set out on our own on foot.

We visited the old Olympic stadium and Hadrian’s Gate. The history here is palpable, the air is thick with it. And just like my trip to Israel, you can’t help but be humbled by it, by the knowledge that these ancient lands were the birthplace of civilizations, that our world today stems from those worlds.

Old-world history aside, I loved The Plaka, the oldest neighbourhood in Athens. Sure, it’s a bit of a tourist trap but the old streets are lined with restaurants for al fresco dining and all manner of shops, from big clothing stores to the boutiques of veritable artists. There’s a buzz in the early evening as tourists and locals alike descend upon the area for dinner but it’s pleasant, especially on warm evenings, to embrace (metaphorically, of course) the crowds and stroll leisurely through the streets.

welcome to the athenaeum intercontinental, athens

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Our Seabourn Odyssey cruise deposited us in Athens. While the ship was continuing on through the Mediterranean, Athens was our last stop. And although I was sad to disembark the luxury vessel, I was very, very excited to explore the ancient city of Athens. More on that later. First, the hotel.

We checked into the Athenaeum Intercontinental. The lobby is vast and situated front and centre is an interesting piece of art (pictured above, top). During my short stay, I wasn’t able to learn more about the piece but it’s certainly eye-catching and memorable. But the real highlight at this hotel was our room, which had a view of the Acropolis. I’ve had some pretty incredible views during my travels (the Opera House from Sydney’s Four Seasons, the Bosphorus from Istanbul’s Ciragan Palace Kempinski, the Bund from Shanghai’s Park Hyatt) and the view from the Athenaeum Intercontinental is another to add to the list. It was nothing short of surreal to look out the window and see the Parthenon.

The nine-story hotel was renovated in 2008 and has 543 guest rooms and 60 suites. There’s a spa with an extensive menu (though they don’t offer manicures and pedicures, which I was disappointed to learn since my nails needed refreshing!) and a business centre with all the services you’re likely to need, including small meeting rooms that are available for rent. The rooms feature all the standard hotel features you’d expect (cable / satellite TV, CD player, flatscreen television), a working desk and ours had a full-length mirror – a nice touch that not all hotels have. The bathroom wasn’t too exciting – it was rather basic with a tub that was very narrow. But the robes were plush and I loved the Korres amenities (shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and body lotion). Korres is a Greek manufacturer of hair, body and face products with highly concentrated natural active ingredients. They smelled good enough to eat. Check out their products online at korres.com; you can also order online. Hotel contact information: Athenaeum Athens, 89-93 Syngrou Avenue, Athens, 11745, Greece, Tel: +30-210-920-6000

british airways’ terminal 5

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I’m back at Heathrow, chilling in one of British Airways’ lounges in Terminal 5. By writing about Terminal 5 right now, I’m not keeping with the chronology of my trip. There’s lots more that I did that I haven’t told you about but the thing is, I’m not blogging every day. To blog every day feels a bit too much like work and not vacation! So, I’ve still got lots to tell you about but if we’re to jump ahead to real time, here I am, at Heathrow, getting ready to go home. We’ll get back to my adventure shortly and I’ll tell you all about the other places I visited.

But for now, here I am in Heathrow and it’s a little overwhelming … in a good way! Once you get through check-in and security (both were pretty quick and easy), you’ll find yourself airside (post-security) in the terminal and that’s where the real fun begins. Landside (pre-security) has some shops and the trendy restaurant Carluccio’s where I ate the last time I was here. The pasta is fresh and delicious and though I passed on dessert (in a rare moment of willpower!) the menu was tempting.

If you’ve been following my adventure, you know that the last time I was here, I was too rushed to really check out the shops. This time, I’ve had plenty of time and the lure of Harrods was simply too strong to resist! Walking out with a fab new Marc Jacobs bag and some teas and biscuits for friends back home did the trick to sate the ravenous shopping bug.

The shops are plentiful – Gucci, Dior, Prada, Tiffany & Co, Coach, Bulgari. There’s a Harrods, of course, one on the upper level of the terminal, with clothing, bags, sunglasses, etc. The lower level location is small but has souvenirs and a mini food hall, perfect for picking up last minute gifts to take home.

British Airways’ lounges here are something to be seen. Unlike most airport lounges, these rooms are designed to the hilt. They’re spacious and the exclusively designed furniture is upholstered in Osborne & Little fabrics. Walls of floor-to-ceiling windows flood the lounges with natural light and are perfect for planespotting.

I’ve got to go check on my flight’s status so that’s all for now. Toodles.

seabourn odyssey takes us to kusadasi

OK, before I bring my reporting on the Seabourn Odyssey cruise I just did to an end, I want to share some pictures from one more incredible place I visited. Ephesus (or Efes, as it’s known in Turkish) is a huge historical attraction and is easily accessed from Kusadasi, which was one of our ports of call.

Because we had had such an exemplary experience with our New Faces tour guide in Istanbul, we were eager to have New Faces tour us around Ephesus as well. As we disembarked the ship for the day, we found our tour guide Eylem ready and waiting for us. He escorted us to our air-conditioned van and we were off, on the 25-minute drive from the port to Ephesus. Eylem proved to be the best tour guide we could have asked for. His easy-going nature and endless knowledge made the experience easy and educational. For more information on New Faces Travel, call +90-212-227-4660 or visit newfacestravel.com.

Ephesus is like a sprawling outdoor museum. This ancient Roman town is incredible to witness in person, almost impossible to believe that this very place was inhabited by ancient peoples so many centuries ago, that they too walked these very streets. The day we visited, it was incredibly hot. Bring lots of water, sunscreen and a hat. And wear comfortable walking shoes that have non-slip soles. The roads have patches of smooth marble, making them quite slippery at times.

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The marble street connects the Great Theatre with the Library of Celsus, pictured above. The Library of Celsus was completed in the year 135 and is a towering example of ancient Roman architecture. Much of the facade has been restored but the original building materials were brick, concrete and mortared rubble.

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This stone carving of Nike, the goddess of victory, shows the inspiration for the corporate Nike logo.

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Stray cats roam through the ancient marble streets of Ephesus, seeking out patches of shade on hot days. They’re rather emaciated but beautiful, too.

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Not far from Ephesus is the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World. There’s not much left; today the temple’s remnants include a lone column over which many storks fly. It’s a Greek temple, though it’s situated in present day Turkey, and was completed in about 550 BC.

seabourn odyssey takes us to navplion

navplion
Sometimes the places you have the lowest expectations of turn out to be the most wonderful. When Seabourn Odyssey deposited us off in Navplion, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Surprisingly, Navplion, the port I knew nothing about and, quite frankly, had never heard of, was perhaps the highlight of the entire cruise. From the moment I arrived, I was seduced by its European charm. It oozed romance. Now this was a place I knew I’d like. Clean and pretty, Navplion is not actually one of the Greek islands; it’s on Greece’s mainland. Buildings with old facades and Juliet balconies line the streets and it’s easy to forget just where you are. Someone said it looked like the French quarter in New Orleans while others compared it to Paris. It’s old. It’s historic. It’s beautiful. And it’s romantic. Like Santorini, there are lots of shops and tavernas to while away an afternoon in but the real treat is exploring the town on foot. You’ll come across the small but beautiful homes of the locals and lots of churches.

If you’re up for it, set out on foot to climb the 852 steps that lead up to the Palamidi Castle, which towers high above the town. Be sure to take water and sunscreen with you and wear a wide-brim hat. The views from the top are worth the huffing and puffing it’ll take you to get there and it’s because of this walk that we discovered a beautiful beach on the other side of the island. We took a taxi down. While the walk up was quite a workout, taking the stone and marble steps down seemed infinitely more dangerous – they’re slippery and there’s no guardrail. Cab, please! A five-euro ride brought us right back to the center of town where we began our trek to find the pretty pebble beach on the other side of the island.

Despite the heat, the walk could not have been more picturesque. We walked a path alongside the water until we found ourselves at the beach. The water was so warm and inviting, I never wanted to leave. I’m a very weak swimmer, paralyzed more by my fear of water than an innate inability to swim. But I have never felt calmer and more at ease than in Navplion’s clear and tranquil waters. I would visit this tiny town again in a heartbeat, just for this beautiful beach.

seabourn odyssey takes us to santorini

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As I mentioned yesterday, I traveled on Seabourn Odyssey through the Turkish and Greek islands. We went from Dikili, Kusadasi and Bodrum in Turkey to Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and Athens in Greece. While each port was beautiful in its own way, some, for me, were more special than others. My two favourites were Santorini and Navplion. Today, I’ll tell you about Santorini.

Perched almost precariously atop rugged cliffs (volcanic rock, actually), Santorini is picture perfect in every way. If you’ve never been, chances are you’ve seen photographs of this quaint island. The photos don’t do it justice. Photos simply can’t convey the magic of the island.

We arrived under the blazing sun, jostled by the populations of four cruise ships, all of which had reached port at about the same time. That’s a lot of tourists. Get out of the pulsing crowds as soon as possible. There are a variety of ways to get to the top of the island, where Santorini really begins. You can take a steep cable car ride; it’s quick but if you suffer from a fear of heights, may not be for you. You can walk or you can jump on one of the hundreds of donkeys waiting to trot you to the top. We paid five euros per person for the donkey ride, though I suspect the price varies depending on the day or the little Greek man you’re dealing with. There’s nothing organized about the trek to the top. It’s a free for all and if you take the donkey, be prepared to jump on and just go! The ride is a bit bumpy, the donkeys look hot, tired and thirsty and as they edge towards the wall and you look down, you may feel nauseous. Don’t look down.

Once at the summit, we found ourselves swimming in a pool of tourists. There are an endless number of cafes, restaurants and shops selling everything from cheap souvenirs to expensive clothing and jewelry. It would have been delightful up at the top but for the tourists. So, my BF and I made our escape. He guided, I followed and before we knew it, we were far from the madding crowd.

In the end, we walked clear across the island (or so it seemed; we walked for ages) and saw sweeping views of Santorini from various angles. We saw the island through the eyes of locals, far from the port where all the cruise ship passengers arrive and a safe distance from the tourist-trap souvenir shops. We lunched at a little restaurant that had only satisfactory food but spectacular views. We walked through streets where there wasn’t a soul in sight and the few people we did pass were locals going about their daily tasks. We passed so many churches, houses painted in a rainbow of pretty pastels and flowers, flowers everywhere.

Visiting in July, the islands are hot, hot, hot, with temperatures flirting with, and often surpassing, 40 degrees Celsius. Water, sunscreen and a wide-brim hat are essentials. If you visit Santorini, stray from the beaten path and explore on your own. You’re bound to find lesser-known treasures as you stroll the local streets and the opportunities for stunning photos are everywhere.

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The donkey ride up to the top of Santorini is bumpy but can be preferable to walking under the scorching summer sun or taking the cable car ride, especially if you’re afraid of heights.

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A weather-worn, sea-ravaged canoe or a piece of artwork sitting atop a rooftop in Santorini? I have no idea but it’s beautiful.

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Painted in shades of blue, green, pink and yellow, the homes on Santorini are clean and cheerful. The overall effect of the whitewashed walls and coloured doors and window frames is that visitors are welcome. Surrounded by a bright blue sky and deep blue sea, the setting is idyllic.

saying goodbye to seabourn odyssey

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I just disembarked Seabourn Odyssey and as my little suitcase and I trundled down the gangway, I felt a palpable sense of sadness. Not only was I going to miss the luxurious life I was living on board this incredible cruise ship, but I was going to miss the friends I’d made in a mere seven days. I knew I’d miss the friendly crew members, each one always ready with a smile, most of them addressing me by name, though I’d never spoken to them before. And I’d miss my afternoon call to order room service – tea, cherries, crackers and cheese – whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted it. Yes, Seabourn spoils its guests and it’s easy to get accustomed to the life they roll out from the moment you board the ship.

And of course, I’d miss waking up each morning in a new port of call. This cruise I just completed stopped every day at ports in Turkey and Greece. From Istanbul, we visited the ports of Dikili, Bodrum, Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and finally Athens. Each was special in its own way and I’ll tell you about them soon. But for now, I’m back on terra firme and missing the Seabourn experience. I wonder if I’ll be back on board one day. I hope so – this ship sails the world and I definitely hope to join them on another voyage, wherever that may be.

the turkish bath at the ciragan palace kempinski istanbul

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What’s the perfect way to relax after a long day of sightseeing? Well, when you’re in Istanbul, the answer is a Turkish bath. Unfamiliar with Turkish baths, I expected the hammam at The Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul to include a massage, followed by a series of pools in which to relax. Umm … not quite. The Turkish bath was, quite literally, a bath. Laying on a marble slab, you’re more comfortable than you might imagine and you find yourself succumbing to the surrounding heat. Using a coarse glove, a “therapist” scrubs your skin within an inch of its life, sloughing off every last bit of dirt and dead skin that may dare to reside on your body. First, she scrubbed one side and then covered me in layers and layers of soft and soapy bubbles. Flip. Repeat. She even washed my hair. I stumbled back to my room in a state of complete relaxation, not to mention, I don’t think I’ve ever been so clean in my life. It’s been a few days since my Turkish bath and my skin is still just as soft and smooth as that first day. The intense exfoliation and cleansing process is definitely good for the skin. I’d do it every week, (OK, every day) if I could! As the treatment ends, you’re wrapped in towels, dabbed with aromatic oils and handed a cup of tea or glass of water. All in all, the Turkish bath was another one of those essential local experiences you just have to try.

The spa also features an extensive menu of other treatments including Ayurvedic treatments, massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. Check out the hotel website for a full list of services and prices.

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