lost passport in tallinn, estonia

What a day yesterday turned out to be. I’m telling myself that the tale I’m about to tell is what makes travel fun, exciting and unforgettable!

If you’ve been keeping up with my previous posts, you know that my boyfriend John and I are sailing on Seabourn Sojourn right now. The 12-day itinerary is as follows: Copenhagen – Stockholm – Helsinki – St. Petersburg – Tallinn – Szcezcin – Warnemünde – Copenhagen. I’ve been to Helsinki before but I’m totally pumped about the six other destinations.

So …

We docked in Tallinn, Estonia yesterday and we were getting ready to do a bike tour. I wasn’t keen on the idea because I haven’t ridden a bike since I was like 12. But, it’s what we’d signed up to do and I’d decided to suck it up and give it a try. Turns out – riding a bike is just like … riding a bike.

Because we’re riding bikes, I can’t bring a bag to hold any of my things. So I’ve got my ship ID card and my passport stuffed into the back pocket of my jeans. We’d been told three times that we MUST have our passports when we go ashore and I’m all about abiding by the rules. The Russians in St. Petersburg weren’t messing around when it came to passports and visas and I didn’t want to take my chances in Tallinn. Maybe the Estonians also feel that Siberia is a good place to sit in a corner and think about what you’ve done.

We rode our bikes for about 40 minutes, then stopped for a break at a local cafe. At which point I realized my passport is missing. Needless to say, I FREAK out. The lovely girl who was leading the bike tour offered to retrace our entire ride and look for my passport. She’s insistent despite my protestations. She goes and comes back sans passport.

To be honest, I wasn’t TOO worried about it. We go back to the ship and I proudly produce an array of identification that I’m positive will simplify the process. Ta-daaaaaaa! I whip out my last passport (I had to cancel it about a month ago because it was full but technically, it wasn’t going to expire for another year) AND a photocopy of my current passport. I’ve got a driver’s license and my ship ID card, which has my photo AND my passport number on it. Besides – I’m Canadian. That’s gotta count for something, right?

Reporting my lost passport to Guest Services on Seabourn Sojourn. I’m not too worried yet.

The staff on Seabourn Sojourn were amazing and everyone jumped on the situation to help out. Phone calls were being made to the embassy, the police department. It looked like everything was going to get sorted out tout de suite. I was so calm, I sat back and ordered a cup of tea in one of the ship’s many lounges. I even contemplated having a brownie.

The ship’s Purser and Guest Services Manager are amazing as they help me to sort out the mess I’ve gotten myself into.

Then the bad news came. I can’t sail without documents. Seabourn staff regretfully inform me that without valid travel documents, I cannot remain on the ship and I most certainly won’t be allowed entry into Poland, our next stop. They tell me I’m going to have to disembark in Tallinn and figure out what to do next. Hopefully, they say, the Canadian embassy can help me get temporary travel documents so I can catch up with the ship in Poland or Germany.

John and I packed up our stuff and raced to the Canadian embassy. We left some of our stuff on the ship, assuming we’d be back at some point.

Leaving the ship to head to the Canadian embassy, I bump into some new friends and stop to tell them what’s happened.

We got to the embassy and the girl working there is expecting me. She’s already been called several times by the ship’s people to find out what my options are. I’m so hopeful that she can issue me some kind of documents immediately so that John and I can get back on the ship before it sets sail again in three hours. (The ship’s captain was so kind he said he’d hold the ship an extra hour for us!) Unfortunately, the girl at the embassy was showing no sign of urgency because she knew she couldn’t help me in time for us to get back on the ship. She said the only solution she could offer was to issue emergency travel documents (that wouldn’t be ready for 24 hours) and that would only be valid for me to fly directly home. Do not stop. Do not pass GO. Just straight home to Canada. Without my passport, I cannot stay in Europe and she won’t be able to provide any kind of documentation that will allow me to fly anywhere to catch up with the ship.

Inside the Canadian embassy in Tallinn, Estonia.

So now things really weren’t looking good. John and I will have to get back to the ship to pick up the things we left, then find a place to stay in Tallinn for the night and then book a flight directly home for me. I started to cry because I was upset and all stressed out and this unexpected twist of events was going to cost a lot of money. The girl from the embassy said she’d try calling the police station one last time and then I would have to tell her what I wanted to do – although I had no choice, really. She would have to issue me emergency travel documents and I’d have to call it a day. Back home for me.

I was looking for a Kleenex because the sleeve of my sweatshirt was no longer sufficing when she reappeared and said that someone must be watching over me. The police reported that someone had just that moment turned my passport in. She kindly arranged a car to take us to the police station and then back to the ship.

Reunited with my passport at the police station in Tallinn. Just in time for me to get back on the ship before she sails again!

I only wish I knew who it was that found my passport, where they found it and how I could get in contact with them to let them know how much I appreciate their act of kindness. Returning my passport to the police station when they did was the difference between a great vacation and one that would have ended rather abruptly and disappointingly. When my passport was reported found at the last minute, it was like the impossible had happened. So perhaps it’s no less impossible that the person who found it will read this blog post. And if that’s the case, an enormous, most heartfelt thank you! Now I know exactly what I’ll do if I ever stumble upon someone’s lost identification.

sailing on seabourn sojourn


It just doesn’t get any better than this. Delicious food. Inimitable service. Spectacular sunsets that wish you good night. This photo is of the sun setting over the Baltic Sea. I don’t think I ever want to get off this ship.  Image courtesy of JohnnyJet.com.

video: pack smart


I just boarded Seabourn’s incredible new ship Sojourn. I’m traveling for two full weeks and need a variety of clothing options – casual summer clothes, warm clothes for cold days, dresses for dinner, high heels, flip flops and even gym clothes and running shoes – travelling on a Seabourn ship means you’ll be indulging in the most delicious gourmet food at every turn, so hitting the treadmill is essential! In this video, I’ll show you how I was able to pack everything I needed and still travel with carry-on only.

two days in athens

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As I mentioned in my last blog post, the view from my room at the Athenaeum was of the Parthenon. Yes, the Parthenon. I can’t quite describe the feeling. The Parthenon is a fixture from textbooks, not something I’d ever really expect to see while lying in bed. But there you have it. If you want one of the world’s most glorious nighttime views, spend the night in one of the Athenaeum’s Parthenon-facing rooms. It is lit up at night, making it even more spectacular than it already is during the daytime.

I only spent two days in Athens and while my BF and I hustled to see the Parthenon on our first day, we simply couldn’t resist and paid another visit the following day. It was just that incredible. It was sweltering both days and it’s a bit of a climb to get to the top, so be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen and a hat and bring water. (I feel like I’ve provided this advice for almost every destination on this trip but it’s just imperative, especially when walking great distances in the scorching summer heat in Europe.)

There’s plenty to do in Athens but when your time is limited like ours was, you must pick and choose, especially if you want to see the Parthenon twice! When Seabourn Odyssey deposited us in the port of Piraeus, we jumped in a cab (the port is crawling with them!) and struck a deal with our cab-driver. For a pre-determined amount, he would tour us around Athens in his car for one hour. This was a great way to get a sense of the city before we set out on our own on foot.

We visited the old Olympic stadium and Hadrian’s Gate. The history here is palpable, the air is thick with it. And just like my trip to Israel, you can’t help but be humbled by it, by the knowledge that these ancient lands were the birthplace of civilizations, that our world today stems from those worlds.

Old-world history aside, I loved The Plaka, the oldest neighbourhood in Athens. Sure, it’s a bit of a tourist trap but the old streets are lined with restaurants for al fresco dining and all manner of shops, from big clothing stores to the boutiques of veritable artists. There’s a buzz in the early evening as tourists and locals alike descend upon the area for dinner but it’s pleasant, especially on warm evenings, to embrace (metaphorically, of course) the crowds and stroll leisurely through the streets.

welcome to the athenaeum intercontinental, athens

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Our Seabourn Odyssey cruise deposited us in Athens. While the ship was continuing on through the Mediterranean, Athens was our last stop. And although I was sad to disembark the luxury vessel, I was very, very excited to explore the ancient city of Athens. More on that later. First, the hotel.

We checked into the Athenaeum Intercontinental. The lobby is vast and situated front and centre is an interesting piece of art (pictured above, top). During my short stay, I wasn’t able to learn more about the piece but it’s certainly eye-catching and memorable. But the real highlight at this hotel was our room, which had a view of the Acropolis. I’ve had some pretty incredible views during my travels (the Opera House from Sydney’s Four Seasons, the Bosphorus from Istanbul’s Ciragan Palace Kempinski, the Bund from Shanghai’s Park Hyatt) and the view from the Athenaeum Intercontinental is another to add to the list. It was nothing short of surreal to look out the window and see the Parthenon.

The nine-story hotel was renovated in 2008 and has 543 guest rooms and 60 suites. There’s a spa with an extensive menu (though they don’t offer manicures and pedicures, which I was disappointed to learn since my nails needed refreshing!) and a business centre with all the services you’re likely to need, including small meeting rooms that are available for rent. The rooms feature all the standard hotel features you’d expect (cable / satellite TV, CD player, flatscreen television), a working desk and ours had a full-length mirror – a nice touch that not all hotels have. The bathroom wasn’t too exciting – it was rather basic with a tub that was very narrow. But the robes were plush and I loved the Korres amenities (shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and body lotion). Korres is a Greek manufacturer of hair, body and face products with highly concentrated natural active ingredients. They smelled good enough to eat. Check out their products online at korres.com; you can also order online. Hotel contact information: Athenaeum Athens, 89-93 Syngrou Avenue, Athens, 11745, Greece, Tel: +30-210-920-6000

seabourn odyssey takes us to kusadasi

OK, before I bring my reporting on the Seabourn Odyssey cruise I just did to an end, I want to share some pictures from one more incredible place I visited. Ephesus (or Efes, as it’s known in Turkish) is a huge historical attraction and is easily accessed from Kusadasi, which was one of our ports of call.

Because we had had such an exemplary experience with our New Faces tour guide in Istanbul, we were eager to have New Faces tour us around Ephesus as well. As we disembarked the ship for the day, we found our tour guide Eylem ready and waiting for us. He escorted us to our air-conditioned van and we were off, on the 25-minute drive from the port to Ephesus. Eylem proved to be the best tour guide we could have asked for. His easy-going nature and endless knowledge made the experience easy and educational. For more information on New Faces Travel, call +90-212-227-4660 or visit newfacestravel.com.

Ephesus is like a sprawling outdoor museum. This ancient Roman town is incredible to witness in person, almost impossible to believe that this very place was inhabited by ancient peoples so many centuries ago, that they too walked these very streets. The day we visited, it was incredibly hot. Bring lots of water, sunscreen and a hat. And wear comfortable walking shoes that have non-slip soles. The roads have patches of smooth marble, making them quite slippery at times.

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The marble street connects the Great Theatre with the Library of Celsus, pictured above. The Library of Celsus was completed in the year 135 and is a towering example of ancient Roman architecture. Much of the facade has been restored but the original building materials were brick, concrete and mortared rubble.

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This stone carving of Nike, the goddess of victory, shows the inspiration for the corporate Nike logo.

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Stray cats roam through the ancient marble streets of Ephesus, seeking out patches of shade on hot days. They’re rather emaciated but beautiful, too.

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Not far from Ephesus is the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World. There’s not much left; today the temple’s remnants include a lone column over which many storks fly. It’s a Greek temple, though it’s situated in present day Turkey, and was completed in about 550 BC.

seabourn odyssey takes us to navplion

navplion
Sometimes the places you have the lowest expectations of turn out to be the most wonderful. When Seabourn Odyssey deposited us off in Navplion, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Surprisingly, Navplion, the port I knew nothing about and, quite frankly, had never heard of, was perhaps the highlight of the entire cruise. From the moment I arrived, I was seduced by its European charm. It oozed romance. Now this was a place I knew I’d like. Clean and pretty, Navplion is not actually one of the Greek islands; it’s on Greece’s mainland. Buildings with old facades and Juliet balconies line the streets and it’s easy to forget just where you are. Someone said it looked like the French quarter in New Orleans while others compared it to Paris. It’s old. It’s historic. It’s beautiful. And it’s romantic. Like Santorini, there are lots of shops and tavernas to while away an afternoon in but the real treat is exploring the town on foot. You’ll come across the small but beautiful homes of the locals and lots of churches.

If you’re up for it, set out on foot to climb the 852 steps that lead up to the Palamidi Castle, which towers high above the town. Be sure to take water and sunscreen with you and wear a wide-brim hat. The views from the top are worth the huffing and puffing it’ll take you to get there and it’s because of this walk that we discovered a beautiful beach on the other side of the island. We took a taxi down. While the walk up was quite a workout, taking the stone and marble steps down seemed infinitely more dangerous – they’re slippery and there’s no guardrail. Cab, please! A five-euro ride brought us right back to the center of town where we began our trek to find the pretty pebble beach on the other side of the island.

Despite the heat, the walk could not have been more picturesque. We walked a path alongside the water until we found ourselves at the beach. The water was so warm and inviting, I never wanted to leave. I’m a very weak swimmer, paralyzed more by my fear of water than an innate inability to swim. But I have never felt calmer and more at ease than in Navplion’s clear and tranquil waters. I would visit this tiny town again in a heartbeat, just for this beautiful beach.

seabourn odyssey takes us to santorini

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As I mentioned yesterday, I traveled on Seabourn Odyssey through the Turkish and Greek islands. We went from Dikili, Kusadasi and Bodrum in Turkey to Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and Athens in Greece. While each port was beautiful in its own way, some, for me, were more special than others. My two favourites were Santorini and Navplion. Today, I’ll tell you about Santorini.

Perched almost precariously atop rugged cliffs (volcanic rock, actually), Santorini is picture perfect in every way. If you’ve never been, chances are you’ve seen photographs of this quaint island. The photos don’t do it justice. Photos simply can’t convey the magic of the island.

We arrived under the blazing sun, jostled by the populations of four cruise ships, all of which had reached port at about the same time. That’s a lot of tourists. Get out of the pulsing crowds as soon as possible. There are a variety of ways to get to the top of the island, where Santorini really begins. You can take a steep cable car ride; it’s quick but if you suffer from a fear of heights, may not be for you. You can walk or you can jump on one of the hundreds of donkeys waiting to trot you to the top. We paid five euros per person for the donkey ride, though I suspect the price varies depending on the day or the little Greek man you’re dealing with. There’s nothing organized about the trek to the top. It’s a free for all and if you take the donkey, be prepared to jump on and just go! The ride is a bit bumpy, the donkeys look hot, tired and thirsty and as they edge towards the wall and you look down, you may feel nauseous. Don’t look down.

Once at the summit, we found ourselves swimming in a pool of tourists. There are an endless number of cafes, restaurants and shops selling everything from cheap souvenirs to expensive clothing and jewelry. It would have been delightful up at the top but for the tourists. So, my BF and I made our escape. He guided, I followed and before we knew it, we were far from the madding crowd.

In the end, we walked clear across the island (or so it seemed; we walked for ages) and saw sweeping views of Santorini from various angles. We saw the island through the eyes of locals, far from the port where all the cruise ship passengers arrive and a safe distance from the tourist-trap souvenir shops. We lunched at a little restaurant that had only satisfactory food but spectacular views. We walked through streets where there wasn’t a soul in sight and the few people we did pass were locals going about their daily tasks. We passed so many churches, houses painted in a rainbow of pretty pastels and flowers, flowers everywhere.

Visiting in July, the islands are hot, hot, hot, with temperatures flirting with, and often surpassing, 40 degrees Celsius. Water, sunscreen and a wide-brim hat are essentials. If you visit Santorini, stray from the beaten path and explore on your own. You’re bound to find lesser-known treasures as you stroll the local streets and the opportunities for stunning photos are everywhere.

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The donkey ride up to the top of Santorini is bumpy but can be preferable to walking under the scorching summer sun or taking the cable car ride, especially if you’re afraid of heights.

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A weather-worn, sea-ravaged canoe or a piece of artwork sitting atop a rooftop in Santorini? I have no idea but it’s beautiful.

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Painted in shades of blue, green, pink and yellow, the homes on Santorini are clean and cheerful. The overall effect of the whitewashed walls and coloured doors and window frames is that visitors are welcome. Surrounded by a bright blue sky and deep blue sea, the setting is idyllic.

saying goodbye to seabourn odyssey

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I just disembarked Seabourn Odyssey and as my little suitcase and I trundled down the gangway, I felt a palpable sense of sadness. Not only was I going to miss the luxurious life I was living on board this incredible cruise ship, but I was going to miss the friends I’d made in a mere seven days. I knew I’d miss the friendly crew members, each one always ready with a smile, most of them addressing me by name, though I’d never spoken to them before. And I’d miss my afternoon call to order room service – tea, cherries, crackers and cheese – whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted it. Yes, Seabourn spoils its guests and it’s easy to get accustomed to the life they roll out from the moment you board the ship.

And of course, I’d miss waking up each morning in a new port of call. This cruise I just completed stopped every day at ports in Turkey and Greece. From Istanbul, we visited the ports of Dikili, Bodrum, Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and finally Athens. Each was special in its own way and I’ll tell you about them soon. But for now, I’m back on terra firme and missing the Seabourn experience. I wonder if I’ll be back on board one day. I hope so – this ship sails the world and I definitely hope to join them on another voyage, wherever that may be.

sailing on seabourn odyssey

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Checking out of the spectacular Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul was tough! It’s such a beautiful hotel and every time I saw the Bosphorus flowing gently outside my window, I had to rub my eyes and make sure I wasn’t dreaming. But our time there had come to a close and it was time to jump in a taksi and head to the port. Next up: Board the Seabourn Odyssey for a cruise that would take us from Istanbul to various ports throughout Turkey and Greece. Let’s go!

Cruise ships never cease to blow my mind. This was my second time aboard a cruise ship but this would be my first real cruise. The sheer size of these vessels is mind-boggling. Like not-so-small cities that float, cruise ships are fascinating and oh-so-much fun to be aboard. Especially one like the luxurious Seabourn Odyssey.

First, let me start with my stateroom. It’s huge. Seriously. It has so many creature comforts in here, I could spend a month. The marble bathroom features his and hers sinks and mirrors and has both a stand-up shower and separate tub. There’s a sizeable walk-in closet with more than enough room for two people to hang up their clothes and there’s ample additional storage … drawers and cupboards, ahoy! Suitcases fit neatly under the bed, so they take up no space once you’ve unpacked. There’s a stylish striped sofa in the room, a desk with custard-coloured leather club chairs (perfect for working, checking emailing or Skype-ing family back home!) and the generous wooden balcony is the ideal place to eat breakfast or dinner if you’re in the mood for something quiet and intimate. There’s a small but modern flat-screen TV, a free mini-bar and Molton Brown toiletries in the bathroom. I love the crisp white cotton duvet cover and sheets, the fresh white towels and the fluffy white bathrobes. The bed is superbly comfortable and features a bone-coloured, stitched leather headboard. A stewardess is assigned to each room and ours, Marlena, is delightful. She’s ready to help or answer questions at any time.

There are 11 decks on the Seabourn Odyssey.  There are plenty of restaurants, including The Colonnade, The Restaurant, Restaurant 2, The Patio Grill, The Observation Bar, The Sky Bar, The Patio Bar, Seabourn Square, The Grand Salon and The Club. Point is, there are tons of options – whether you’re looking for a New York striploin, a snack of crackers and olives or an ice cream sundae. But remember: reservations are necessary at most of the restaurants for dinner. Plan accordingly.

There are four washers and dryers on board the ship. Amazing. So you don’t have to pay outrageous prices to have your clothes laundered if you’re willing to do it yourself. There’s a casino if you’re feeling lucky, two pools and four whirlpools. There are meeting rooms (if you must), a card room and shops. Seabourn Square features a library and computer centre if you’re traveling sans laptop.

The Spa at Seabourn is a two-deck health spa and salon and features seven treatment rooms, saunas, steam rooms and fully-equipped gym. The spa menu is extensive though the prices are a bit steep. But after a day in the hot sun, after a shore excursion, sometimes the spa is just the perfect thing.

This ship, which took its maiden voyage in June, is brand-spankin’ new and has had cruise enthusiasts waiting in great anticipation to board. And all those I’ve spoken to are thrilled. Seabourn Odyssey, it seems, was worth the wait.

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