turkish delights

Our afternoon in Istanbul was more laidback but just as insightful when it came to seeing, living and better understanding Turkish culture. I love spending time in a foreign city doing what the locals do, not necessarily traipsing from one museum to another, though of course, the historical sites and museums are musts. But I much prefer mixing and mingling with locals and getting caught up in their daily activities.

So after lunch, we strolled.

sevan-bicakci
First stop: Sevan Bicacki. The local jewelry designer is rapidly gaining international attention and his pieces are exquisite. He currently has stores in Istanbul and Dubai with plans for expansion into the United States. Visit sevanbicakci.com for more information.

chestnuts
Strolling the streets of Istanbul, vendors selling all kinds of food are everywhere. From fresh fruits and vegetables to pretzels, bagels and these fragrant roasted chestnuts, the options are plentiful.

grand-bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is nothing like I had expected. Anticipating a typical souk, I was surprised to see that not only was the market fully covered (not open-air as I’d thought), but that it was relatively quiet and … orderly. I anticipated something more chaotic, more aggressive but the Grand Bazaar is a lovely and uniquely Turkish place to explore. You’ll find vendors selling all kinds of wares like handmade, hand-painted dishware, souvenirs, and bigger-ticket items like handmade carpets, THE thing to buy in Istanbul if you can afford it and aren’t intimidated by the prospect of getting it home.

spice-market
The Spice Market sells every manner of fresh and fragrant spice. I couldn’t help myself … I had to stop and purchase a small and pricey amount of saffron for a risotto dish I love to make. You’ll find more than just spices here; stop for an ice cream or a freshly baked dessert like lokma or Turkish baklava.

punto-of-istanbul
As I mentioned, handmade rugs are one of the most popular souvenirs to bring home from Turkey. Punto of Istanbul (Tel: 0212-511-08-53) sells fine rugs and artifacts. To describe the reception I received there as friendly would be an enormous understatement. Customers are offered tea and a comfortable seat to view and choose the rug that’s right for them.

sightseeing in istanbul

turkish-coffee
Jetlag, schmetlag! My BF and I are only in Istanbul for about 48 hours, which means time is of the essence. This city is packed with ancient history and modern (Turkish!) delights. So if we want to see it all, we’ve got to get a move on. Which is what we did, despite a somewhat sluggish start in the morning on my part. Our first day in Istanbul started at 9:30am, with a tour guide par excellence. Askin Aydin with New Faces Travel (+90-212-227-4660)  was exactly the kind of tour guide we’d hoped for. After determining up front what we wanted to do and see, Askin proceeded to tailor our day-long tour to suit our interests.

We began by seeing the historic sites of the city. We visited the Blue Mosque (natch), which rises most impressively over the city, grand in both its commanding presence and its architecture. Its English nickname comes from the cobalt tiles that adorn the interior’s soaring domes though the mosque’s true name is The Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Built between 1609 and 1616, it is a sacred place of worship and is the starting point for many pilgrims who make the journey to Mecca. There’s a back entrance for visitors, so as not to disturb those in prayer and it is essential for everyone to cover up shoulders, arms and legs before entering. You will be handed a piece of fabric for a makeshift skirt if your legs are bare and a shawl to wrap around your shoulders if necessary. The rules apply to both men and women, though I saw a man inside the mosque in a tank top. Hmmm.

Next up: Hagia Sofia. This beautiful place is a basilica turned mosque, turned museum. Mostly recognized for its enormous domed ceiling, this structure is said to epitomize Byzantine architecture. It’s dark inside but beautiful, adorned with Islamic calligraphic roundels, marble floors and imposing archways. There are Christian mosaics on the domes, the largest and most beautiful, one of the virgin and child. Hagia Sofia is an interesting meeting place of the Muslim and Christian faiths and is a must-see stop on a tour of Istanbul.

There’s lots more to see: The Topkapi Palace and the Roman Hippodrome, to name just two. After a full morning of sightseeing, we took a break and enjoyed some local food for lunch. This is another one of the advantages of having a great local tour guide. Askin knew exactly where to take us for good food. We lunched at Onur et Lokantasi (Nuru Osmaniye Cd. Alibaba, Turbe Sk, No: 21/7 Cagaloglu, Istanbul, 0212-527-12-29) starting with a fresh green salad, followed by a traditional Turkish meal of grilled beef and chicken, rice, tomatoes and French fries. It was all topped off with a traditional Turkish coffee. I’m no coffee drinker (tea for me, please!) and this coffee is S-T-R-O-N-G. Like a double espresso, Askin said. But a shot of this stuff is not only part of the local experience, it sends enough caffeine coursing through your veins to see you through the rest of an action-packed afternoon of sightseeing. I’ll tell you about what we did in the afternoon later! I’m off to take in my last view of the beautiful Bosphorus.

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