seabourn odyssey takes us to navplion

navplion
Sometimes the places you have the lowest expectations of turn out to be the most wonderful. When Seabourn Odyssey deposited us off in Navplion, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Surprisingly, Navplion, the port I knew nothing about and, quite frankly, had never heard of, was perhaps the highlight of the entire cruise. From the moment I arrived, I was seduced by its European charm. It oozed romance. Now this was a place I knew I’d like. Clean and pretty, Navplion is not actually one of the Greek islands; it’s on Greece’s mainland. Buildings with old facades and Juliet balconies line the streets and it’s easy to forget just where you are. Someone said it looked like the French quarter in New Orleans while others compared it to Paris. It’s old. It’s historic. It’s beautiful. And it’s romantic. Like Santorini, there are lots of shops and tavernas to while away an afternoon in but the real treat is exploring the town on foot. You’ll come across the small but beautiful homes of the locals and lots of churches.

If you’re up for it, set out on foot to climb the 852 steps that lead up to the Palamidi Castle, which towers high above the town. Be sure to take water and sunscreen with you and wear a wide-brim hat. The views from the top are worth the huffing and puffing it’ll take you to get there and it’s because of this walk that we discovered a beautiful beach on the other side of the island. We took a taxi down. While the walk up was quite a workout, taking the stone and marble steps down seemed infinitely more dangerous – they’re slippery and there’s no guardrail. Cab, please! A five-euro ride brought us right back to the center of town where we began our trek to find the pretty pebble beach on the other side of the island.

Despite the heat, the walk could not have been more picturesque. We walked a path alongside the water until we found ourselves at the beach. The water was so warm and inviting, I never wanted to leave. I’m a very weak swimmer, paralyzed more by my fear of water than an innate inability to swim. But I have never felt calmer and more at ease than in Navplion’s clear and tranquil waters. I would visit this tiny town again in a heartbeat, just for this beautiful beach.

seabourn odyssey takes us to santorini

santorini1
As I mentioned yesterday, I traveled on Seabourn Odyssey through the Turkish and Greek islands. We went from Dikili, Kusadasi and Bodrum in Turkey to Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and Athens in Greece. While each port was beautiful in its own way, some, for me, were more special than others. My two favourites were Santorini and Navplion. Today, I’ll tell you about Santorini.

Perched almost precariously atop rugged cliffs (volcanic rock, actually), Santorini is picture perfect in every way. If you’ve never been, chances are you’ve seen photographs of this quaint island. The photos don’t do it justice. Photos simply can’t convey the magic of the island.

We arrived under the blazing sun, jostled by the populations of four cruise ships, all of which had reached port at about the same time. That’s a lot of tourists. Get out of the pulsing crowds as soon as possible. There are a variety of ways to get to the top of the island, where Santorini really begins. You can take a steep cable car ride; it’s quick but if you suffer from a fear of heights, may not be for you. You can walk or you can jump on one of the hundreds of donkeys waiting to trot you to the top. We paid five euros per person for the donkey ride, though I suspect the price varies depending on the day or the little Greek man you’re dealing with. There’s nothing organized about the trek to the top. It’s a free for all and if you take the donkey, be prepared to jump on and just go! The ride is a bit bumpy, the donkeys look hot, tired and thirsty and as they edge towards the wall and you look down, you may feel nauseous. Don’t look down.

Once at the summit, we found ourselves swimming in a pool of tourists. There are an endless number of cafes, restaurants and shops selling everything from cheap souvenirs to expensive clothing and jewelry. It would have been delightful up at the top but for the tourists. So, my BF and I made our escape. He guided, I followed and before we knew it, we were far from the madding crowd.

In the end, we walked clear across the island (or so it seemed; we walked for ages) and saw sweeping views of Santorini from various angles. We saw the island through the eyes of locals, far from the port where all the cruise ship passengers arrive and a safe distance from the tourist-trap souvenir shops. We lunched at a little restaurant that had only satisfactory food but spectacular views. We walked through streets where there wasn’t a soul in sight and the few people we did pass were locals going about their daily tasks. We passed so many churches, houses painted in a rainbow of pretty pastels and flowers, flowers everywhere.

Visiting in July, the islands are hot, hot, hot, with temperatures flirting with, and often surpassing, 40 degrees Celsius. Water, sunscreen and a wide-brim hat are essentials. If you visit Santorini, stray from the beaten path and explore on your own. You’re bound to find lesser-known treasures as you stroll the local streets and the opportunities for stunning photos are everywhere.

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The donkey ride up to the top of Santorini is bumpy but can be preferable to walking under the scorching summer sun or taking the cable car ride, especially if you’re afraid of heights.

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A weather-worn, sea-ravaged canoe or a piece of artwork sitting atop a rooftop in Santorini? I have no idea but it’s beautiful.

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Painted in shades of blue, green, pink and yellow, the homes on Santorini are clean and cheerful. The overall effect of the whitewashed walls and coloured doors and window frames is that visitors are welcome. Surrounded by a bright blue sky and deep blue sea, the setting is idyllic.

saying goodbye to seabourn odyssey

seabourn-odyssey
I just disembarked Seabourn Odyssey and as my little suitcase and I trundled down the gangway, I felt a palpable sense of sadness. Not only was I going to miss the luxurious life I was living on board this incredible cruise ship, but I was going to miss the friends I’d made in a mere seven days. I knew I’d miss the friendly crew members, each one always ready with a smile, most of them addressing me by name, though I’d never spoken to them before. And I’d miss my afternoon call to order room service – tea, cherries, crackers and cheese – whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted it. Yes, Seabourn spoils its guests and it’s easy to get accustomed to the life they roll out from the moment you board the ship.

And of course, I’d miss waking up each morning in a new port of call. This cruise I just completed stopped every day at ports in Turkey and Greece. From Istanbul, we visited the ports of Dikili, Bodrum, Santorini, Mylos, Navplion and finally Athens. Each was special in its own way and I’ll tell you about them soon. But for now, I’m back on terra firme and missing the Seabourn experience. I wonder if I’ll be back on board one day. I hope so – this ship sails the world and I definitely hope to join them on another voyage, wherever that may be.

sailing on seabourn odyssey

odyssey
Checking out of the spectacular Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul was tough! It’s such a beautiful hotel and every time I saw the Bosphorus flowing gently outside my window, I had to rub my eyes and make sure I wasn’t dreaming. But our time there had come to a close and it was time to jump in a taksi and head to the port. Next up: Board the Seabourn Odyssey for a cruise that would take us from Istanbul to various ports throughout Turkey and Greece. Let’s go!

Cruise ships never cease to blow my mind. This was my second time aboard a cruise ship but this would be my first real cruise. The sheer size of these vessels is mind-boggling. Like not-so-small cities that float, cruise ships are fascinating and oh-so-much fun to be aboard. Especially one like the luxurious Seabourn Odyssey.

First, let me start with my stateroom. It’s huge. Seriously. It has so many creature comforts in here, I could spend a month. The marble bathroom features his and hers sinks and mirrors and has both a stand-up shower and separate tub. There’s a sizeable walk-in closet with more than enough room for two people to hang up their clothes and there’s ample additional storage … drawers and cupboards, ahoy! Suitcases fit neatly under the bed, so they take up no space once you’ve unpacked. There’s a stylish striped sofa in the room, a desk with custard-coloured leather club chairs (perfect for working, checking emailing or Skype-ing family back home!) and the generous wooden balcony is the ideal place to eat breakfast or dinner if you’re in the mood for something quiet and intimate. There’s a small but modern flat-screen TV, a free mini-bar and Molton Brown toiletries in the bathroom. I love the crisp white cotton duvet cover and sheets, the fresh white towels and the fluffy white bathrobes. The bed is superbly comfortable and features a bone-coloured, stitched leather headboard. A stewardess is assigned to each room and ours, Marlena, is delightful. She’s ready to help or answer questions at any time.

There are 11 decks on the Seabourn Odyssey.  There are plenty of restaurants, including The Colonnade, The Restaurant, Restaurant 2, The Patio Grill, The Observation Bar, The Sky Bar, The Patio Bar, Seabourn Square, The Grand Salon and The Club. Point is, there are tons of options – whether you’re looking for a New York striploin, a snack of crackers and olives or an ice cream sundae. But remember: reservations are necessary at most of the restaurants for dinner. Plan accordingly.

There are four washers and dryers on board the ship. Amazing. So you don’t have to pay outrageous prices to have your clothes laundered if you’re willing to do it yourself. There’s a casino if you’re feeling lucky, two pools and four whirlpools. There are meeting rooms (if you must), a card room and shops. Seabourn Square features a library and computer centre if you’re traveling sans laptop.

The Spa at Seabourn is a two-deck health spa and salon and features seven treatment rooms, saunas, steam rooms and fully-equipped gym. The spa menu is extensive though the prices are a bit steep. But after a day in the hot sun, after a shore excursion, sometimes the spa is just the perfect thing.

This ship, which took its maiden voyage in June, is brand-spankin’ new and has had cruise enthusiasts waiting in great anticipation to board. And all those I’ve spoken to are thrilled. Seabourn Odyssey, it seems, was worth the wait.

the turkish bath at the ciragan palace kempinski istanbul

hammam
What’s the perfect way to relax after a long day of sightseeing? Well, when you’re in Istanbul, the answer is a Turkish bath. Unfamiliar with Turkish baths, I expected the hammam at The Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul to include a massage, followed by a series of pools in which to relax. Umm … not quite. The Turkish bath was, quite literally, a bath. Laying on a marble slab, you’re more comfortable than you might imagine and you find yourself succumbing to the surrounding heat. Using a coarse glove, a “therapist” scrubs your skin within an inch of its life, sloughing off every last bit of dirt and dead skin that may dare to reside on your body. First, she scrubbed one side and then covered me in layers and layers of soft and soapy bubbles. Flip. Repeat. She even washed my hair. I stumbled back to my room in a state of complete relaxation, not to mention, I don’t think I’ve ever been so clean in my life. It’s been a few days since my Turkish bath and my skin is still just as soft and smooth as that first day. The intense exfoliation and cleansing process is definitely good for the skin. I’d do it every week, (OK, every day) if I could! As the treatment ends, you’re wrapped in towels, dabbed with aromatic oils and handed a cup of tea or glass of water. All in all, the Turkish bath was another one of those essential local experiences you just have to try.

The spa also features an extensive menu of other treatments including Ayurvedic treatments, massages, facials, manicures and pedicures. Check out the hotel website for a full list of services and prices.

turkish delights

Our afternoon in Istanbul was more laidback but just as insightful when it came to seeing, living and better understanding Turkish culture. I love spending time in a foreign city doing what the locals do, not necessarily traipsing from one museum to another, though of course, the historical sites and museums are musts. But I much prefer mixing and mingling with locals and getting caught up in their daily activities.

So after lunch, we strolled.

sevan-bicakci
First stop: Sevan Bicacki. The local jewelry designer is rapidly gaining international attention and his pieces are exquisite. He currently has stores in Istanbul and Dubai with plans for expansion into the United States. Visit sevanbicakci.com for more information.

chestnuts
Strolling the streets of Istanbul, vendors selling all kinds of food are everywhere. From fresh fruits and vegetables to pretzels, bagels and these fragrant roasted chestnuts, the options are plentiful.

grand-bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is nothing like I had expected. Anticipating a typical souk, I was surprised to see that not only was the market fully covered (not open-air as I’d thought), but that it was relatively quiet and … orderly. I anticipated something more chaotic, more aggressive but the Grand Bazaar is a lovely and uniquely Turkish place to explore. You’ll find vendors selling all kinds of wares like handmade, hand-painted dishware, souvenirs, and bigger-ticket items like handmade carpets, THE thing to buy in Istanbul if you can afford it and aren’t intimidated by the prospect of getting it home.

spice-market
The Spice Market sells every manner of fresh and fragrant spice. I couldn’t help myself … I had to stop and purchase a small and pricey amount of saffron for a risotto dish I love to make. You’ll find more than just spices here; stop for an ice cream or a freshly baked dessert like lokma or Turkish baklava.

punto-of-istanbul
As I mentioned, handmade rugs are one of the most popular souvenirs to bring home from Turkey. Punto of Istanbul (Tel: 0212-511-08-53) sells fine rugs and artifacts. To describe the reception I received there as friendly would be an enormous understatement. Customers are offered tea and a comfortable seat to view and choose the rug that’s right for them.

sightseeing in istanbul

turkish-coffee
Jetlag, schmetlag! My BF and I are only in Istanbul for about 48 hours, which means time is of the essence. This city is packed with ancient history and modern (Turkish!) delights. So if we want to see it all, we’ve got to get a move on. Which is what we did, despite a somewhat sluggish start in the morning on my part. Our first day in Istanbul started at 9:30am, with a tour guide par excellence. Askin Aydin with New Faces Travel (+90-212-227-4660)  was exactly the kind of tour guide we’d hoped for. After determining up front what we wanted to do and see, Askin proceeded to tailor our day-long tour to suit our interests.

We began by seeing the historic sites of the city. We visited the Blue Mosque (natch), which rises most impressively over the city, grand in both its commanding presence and its architecture. Its English nickname comes from the cobalt tiles that adorn the interior’s soaring domes though the mosque’s true name is The Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Built between 1609 and 1616, it is a sacred place of worship and is the starting point for many pilgrims who make the journey to Mecca. There’s a back entrance for visitors, so as not to disturb those in prayer and it is essential for everyone to cover up shoulders, arms and legs before entering. You will be handed a piece of fabric for a makeshift skirt if your legs are bare and a shawl to wrap around your shoulders if necessary. The rules apply to both men and women, though I saw a man inside the mosque in a tank top. Hmmm.

Next up: Hagia Sofia. This beautiful place is a basilica turned mosque, turned museum. Mostly recognized for its enormous domed ceiling, this structure is said to epitomize Byzantine architecture. It’s dark inside but beautiful, adorned with Islamic calligraphic roundels, marble floors and imposing archways. There are Christian mosaics on the domes, the largest and most beautiful, one of the virgin and child. Hagia Sofia is an interesting meeting place of the Muslim and Christian faiths and is a must-see stop on a tour of Istanbul.

There’s lots more to see: The Topkapi Palace and the Roman Hippodrome, to name just two. After a full morning of sightseeing, we took a break and enjoyed some local food for lunch. This is another one of the advantages of having a great local tour guide. Askin knew exactly where to take us for good food. We lunched at Onur et Lokantasi (Nuru Osmaniye Cd. Alibaba, Turbe Sk, No: 21/7 Cagaloglu, Istanbul, 0212-527-12-29) starting with a fresh green salad, followed by a traditional Turkish meal of grilled beef and chicken, rice, tomatoes and French fries. It was all topped off with a traditional Turkish coffee. I’m no coffee drinker (tea for me, please!) and this coffee is S-T-R-O-N-G. Like a double espresso, Askin said. But a shot of this stuff is not only part of the local experience, it sends enough caffeine coursing through your veins to see you through the rest of an action-packed afternoon of sightseeing. I’ll tell you about what we did in the afternoon later! I’m off to take in my last view of the beautiful Bosphorus.

the ciragan palace kempinski istanbul

ciragan-kempinski-istanbul
There was NO time to check out Harrods. Drat! I had to race through Heathrow’s Terminal 5 to get to my gate on time, which meant I had no time to check out all the fabulous shops and restaurants in the new terminal. Fortunately, I’ll be back in a couple of weeks before flying home so there will be plenty of time to check out what’s cool and hopefully do a little shopping!

I was racing to catch a flight to Istanbul. I know – crazy, right? I’ve been here for just over 24 hours and already I’ve seen so much. The city welcomes visitors with open arms and a first impression that’s hard to top. It’s clean, but beyond clean, I was taken by the beauty of the city I saw as I sat back in the taxi that whisked me from the airport to my hotel. Miles and miles of perfectly manicured parks line the Sea of Marmara and these parks were filled with families and couples sitting huddled under trees. I loved the instant feeling of warmth and love that exuded from the intimate vignettes I saw all over the city during that brief drive. It was impossible to miss.

I’m staying at The Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul. Keeping watch over the Bosphorus, the hotel is ideally situated for getting around, whether it’s to see the local historical sites, enjoy great food along the famous river or even take a ferry to Asia. That’s right; Istanbul is the only city in the world that sits on two continents, Europe and Asia. The hotel has 280 guestrooms, 22 hotel suites and 11 palace suites. Oprah was just here, staying in one of the over-the-top luxurious palace suites but I’m pretty happy here in my supersized guestroom, with its sweet balcony and sweeping view of the Bosphorus … and free WiFi, too!

Besides killer views, the hotel has a handful of restaurants that serve some killer food, too. I was tempted to stay in one night and order room service (hey, a transatlantic flight tires a girl out!) but I’m so glad I dined al fresco (the night air was as soft as silk on my skin) and enjoyed the good food and even better view at The Gazebo. Laledan Restaurant offers an incredible breakfast buffet with an endless (and I mean endless!) assortment of breads, pastries, cheeses, fruit, salads, fresh juices and everything else you’d expect to find at a breakfast buffet.

The staff here are friendly, always ready to help or answer a question. I check out of here tomorrow afternoon but this is a place I would come back to stay in a heartbeat! Tomorrow I’ll tell you all about the sites I visited in Istanbul and the places not to miss when you visit. The Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, Ciragan Caddesi 32 Beşiktaş, 34349 Istanbul, Turkey, Tel: + 90 212 326 46 46.

british airways club world

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I just got off a British Airways flight from Toronto to London’s Heathrow Airport. Chilling in business class or Club World, as British Airways calls it, was fantastic from beginning to end. My lie-flat bed made the seven-hour flight speed by; I slept for most of the flight but enjoyed some snacks and a movie before drifting off to sleep, almost until landing. The service on-board was exemplary and I can’t help it, but those British accents just make me swoon. So it doesn’t really matter what the flight attendants are saying; it all just sounds perfectly delightful! But kudos where it’s deserved — the flight attendants were, without exception, friendly and attentive.

I’m waiting for my connecting flight in the Concorde Lounge in Heathrow’s new Terminal 5. I haven’t had a chance to explore the new terminal (there’s been a lot of talk about how fab it is) but I can say that the sprawling Harrods I passed on my way to the lounge is beckoning. In fact, I’m off to check it out now. Stay tuned!

beach bag essentials

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I hate complaining about the weather but sometimes, you just have to. It’s the first week of July and it was c-c-cold outside today. Which leaves me with no other choice but to dream about warm weather destinations. So, in my mind, I’m packing my bags and heading to the beach! Here are my beach bag essentials.

1 Sunglasses: I love my Prada sunglasses, definitely a splurge but they just look so good! And besides, you do NEED UV protection when you’re outdoors!
2 Cotton hobo bag: Available at Old Navy, this bag is perfect for the beach or for toting around town. It’s so easy to fold and pack, which is another reason I love it.
3 Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock: Sunblock is a beach essential but I love this Neutrogena sunscreen because it goes on smooth and feels dry to the touch once applied. I hate sunscreens that are hard to rub in and leave you feeling greasy.
4 iPod Touch: How did we ever live without our iPods? Full of my fave tunes and even a handful of movies (not to mention a vast assortment of games and other apps), my iPod goes where I go! Perfect for relaxing on the beach and the passing time on the plane.
5 Havaiana flip flops: Stylish. Comfortable. Inexpensive. Perfect.
6 OPI nail polish: OK, so you can’t fix up a botched nail polish job on the beach but it doesn’t hurt to have your nail polish on hand just in case!

What are your beach bag essentials?

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